Видео

what front lens cap do you use?? I can't find any RF front lens cap on their website. Its all for E mount

Great review. Thanks. Just downloaded Nik 7 Collection and this was a most useful introduction for my trial.

Thanks for sharing the breakdown and where you had them printed. One thought is to just charge a flat rate for shipping and you would have recouped some of the expenses for shipping and you would have rung the register.. Cha Ching :)

Hi Todd - I enjoy your videos. Although, this one you started off missing one of the largest categories of tripod heads. The first category is the 3-way heads, sometimes referred to as the 'pan-tilt' heads. They've literally been around for more than 4 decades (not years, decades). Three-way heads have the same purpose, the main difference is that the geared heads have the minute adjustments built-in, whereas the 3-way heads are simpler - you loosen them to freely adjust within that axis at the pressure of how loose the handle is (adjusting the drag tension). What is better about the 3-way heads is the handles are much longer, so much easier to use than these tiny knobs on the geared, although I assume they can be replaced with better handles. I just wanted to clear up your categories since you missed the primary category - 3-way heads. For the new kids, a few examples are the heavy-duty Manfrotto/Bogen 3030, 3039, and 3047 heads. There has been multiple versions of these over spanning 40+ years, with variances and styles of the handles. The 3047 is more for the serious photographer, easily supporting large and medium format cameras and large telephoto lenses. The 3047 was produced in 6 versions over the decades, with handles interchangeable across the styles, also works great with gloves on. Hope this helps in clearing-up the history on tripod head categories. :) Again, I enjoy your videos - keep up the good work.

I've enjoyed watching these videos of your journeys to NM and UT. We truly have some spectacular landscapes in this country. I've pinned this location, and Bisti/De-Na-Zin Wilderness. Thank you for taking us along for the ride. You landed some beauties. I loved my trip out west back in March, and can't wait to get back early 2025 📸

Are these compatible with Davinci Resolve?

the files on that 100s in portrait work are amazing to work with in photoshop.

correction: it doesn't share the sensor with the 100 ii. It's an in-between addendum: Jim Kasson is a legend

Great explanations, thanks. However, my issues are the audio level of the music in between your filter explanation, audio on music extremely loud an way to loud music sound levels.

I don't like the look of this lens for some reason- I prefer the samyang 85 1.5 (The EF version should work since the RF one is discontinued now!)

Amazing sound quality in your video

Come on Fuji. This could've been a GFX 50R 2.

Thank you, Todd, for the great review. I've learned a lot-remarkably organized and meticulous information.

Currently debating getting this camera and your videos have been very helpful. Thank you!

The look of this video is very inviting. It's relaxing and maybe I just can't explain but I love it! :) Thank you for the insight <3

Leofoto leveling base...a fraction of the cost

Thank you ! ⭐️

great 🎉

wow beautiful. now imagine if this was shot on lumix

Can I use it on IPad’s Lightroom app?

I was about to keep the 100s one month ago, then they announced the mark II, so I returned it and waited to purchase the new version. This was meant to be my landscape/architectural camera, while my Sony A7R5 should be the hybrid camera for movies, portraits and outdoor general shooting. Before getting the first GFX100s, I tried the Nikon Z8, which, in my opinion, is the most overestimated camera in the last decade. Just to limit the comparison (vs. Fuji) to a line: Nikon is heavier (!), bigger (!), its AF system in low light conditions is worse than the GFX 100s (mark I !!!), and the results when shooting in low light conditions are terrible (not because of the noise, but because of the horrible exposure resulting). Anyway, the real issue with the Mark I was the AF system, which was not reliable when shooting people, especially if they were moving. The lack of 4k videos was also annoying, but not really relevant in my case. After extended sessions with both, A7R5 and GFX100s I/II, my conclusions are that Fuji is *almost* the same, even with moving subjects. Trying to figure out the real accuracy of both systems, I realized that the most reliable lenses on Sony are the 135mm f 1.8 and the 50mm f 1.2: they are the only lenses that allow the AF system to correctly focus on subjects' eyes. The 14mm f 1.8, Sigma 85mm f 1.4 DG DN Art, and the 35mm f 1.4 give different results: from never ever 100% correctly focusing on the eye, to rarely doing so. Anyway, I also realized that the superfast Sony's AF system is often misleading since it gives you the green light while it is not really focused. Bottom line: Sony's AF is faster, but not always accurate. In real-world shooting, you will see that GFX 100s Mark II is slower and less accurate than A7R5, but not as much as it looks. About 100s Mark I / Mark II differences, I cannot see any real benefit from switching to the newer version just for landscape photography, and, as I said, I was already about to keep the Mark I to use it this way. The real deal-breaker is the new AF system for portraits and moving subjects. About film simulations: you don't need to shoot in .jpg to benefit from them, since (as you said) it is the way LRC can automatically export your raw file, once you convert it into .jpg. And this is one of the most relevant parts: the predefined Sony profiles are terrible: this, plus the wider dynamic range with Fuji, determines uncomparable artistic results, that you can achieve with less effort.

Thanks, I have a problem, I have a Samsung and can't edit my pictures in Photoshop on my computer. Is there a way to change this on the pictures I have taken?

Thanks for the great video i might switch to capture one. I was wondering tho if you buy lifetime without updates how much do the updates cost? Is it full price of the software?

Try the Mamiya Sekor Z 65mm (RZ) f/4L-A wide angle its equivalent to a 32mm full frame .

I wholeheartedly agree with you here Todd. All these people saying 'oh but presets are cheating', sorry but that's garbage. A preset isn't and was NEVER meant to be the be all and end all of a photo and just a, for lack of a better word, one click solution. A 'preset' is meant to be a starting point. You STILL have to tweak your images to suit your own style, so it's not as if it's removing you from the creative developing process AT ALL because it's not. It's only a starting point if you don't know what you want a particular photo to look like, and then adjust it to suit YOU. You still have to do the work yourself.

The reason camera equipment is discounted is the Japanese Yen is falling rapidly in relation to everything else that's why Nikon is moving their factories back to Japan because the Thai Baht is too expensive.

Those clip in filters make autofocus a lot harder and less. I could focus to infinity without it and when I focus on the same spot, it'll be 15ft... not worth it

As a landscape photographer going away from the tripod was the best thing I’ve ever done. Will patino only shoots handheld and it’s something I embraced and it’s far far better an experience shooting than with a tripod. My a7r5 has 8 stops and I get over a second easily handheld so assuming the Fuji is close. Highly recommend trying it as it’s an infinitely better experience shooting.

Thanks for a good review. I had to disqualify many of the Fujifilm cameras, not because of technical limitations. These are good stats. What disqualifies both versions are for political decisions. Excluding lens, If I bought or was given such a camera it would cost me over $1,000 more to make it usable to me. I'm talking both photography and video. A simple thing as a fully articulating screen was decided to be left out/off of the camera. When I mount the camera high up, so that I can shoot down, I need to see the screen to make sure everything is composed properly and the lighting is as it should be, as well as the focus hasn't shifted. This bad decision has been made by many camera companies. If photographers are concern about the screen breaking, leave it tucked next to the camera. Photographers also need a fully articulating screen. Fujifilm, you are listening to the wrong people! Luckily the X-s20 will meet my needs, even though it is not full frame. Fujifilm, stop leaving important things off of cameras such as an audio out spigot. I must admit disqualifying cameras for deficiencies is easier than choosing a camera. Good video.

The best sound enhancing tutorial. Thank you

Great vlog really enjoy your videos , with the GFX I would move over to this system but for two major issues , No Sensor cover , on a £5000 pounds/dollar camera , I don't want to be cleaning a 5k sensor that's a no no for me ,Canon have resolved this issue and Nikon have followed suit , so I hope Fuji do the same , a simple sensor shield when changing lenses ,I notice you mention putting a filter in front of that sensor but i wondered how much was that and would you really want to put anything in front of a 100mp sensor ,so far I've had Not 1 dust spot on my canon in over 2 years the other issue is weight ,its still a bit too heavy to lug about being a landscape photographer ,so that's what keeping me away at the moment, I'm sure they will fix this and then ill move in a heart beat , please keep up the vlogs Tom I made a few adjustments to my own canon thanks to your previous vlogs thanks again .

I just bought the 100s ii as my entrance into Fuji medium format. I love a deal, so the original 100s was very tempting. However, I have an 8-year-old that I go on adventures with. We're staying in the high country of Yosemite next week. What does that mean? I'll be shooting handheld. I also love to walk around and shoot Robert Adams-esque stuff. Again, no tripod. One day in and I'm thinking this will be a great camera. I'm coming from Mamiya 7, Pentax 67, Panasonic S1, and Leicas.

It's odd that off brand Samsung IPS panel 27 monitors were close to Apple Displays 15 years ago but Ben Q and others can't match Apple's Cine display for $1,500.

So sell me ur MK2. Good review btw. Thanks

I'm really keen on this camera because I've been using the 50 and I absolutely love it and I've been doing a lot of handheld landscape photography because of ibis. I'm probably one of those photographers that was late to even the mirror came up until a year ago I was still using a Nikon D 850 for my landscape Photography and that is still a brilliant camera with No ibis. So I do think Ibis is a game changer for landscape photography, especially getting some low angles and some stuff in precarious situations where it's difficult to use a tripod all the time and sometimes you just want to go for a walk for an hour without all the gear just one lens, one camera body and take photos and I think that's where a camera like this probably will shine. Check out Rick Pattino (kiwi photographer) on RUclips and he does the majority of his work without a tripod at all and I really like the way he does his work. I actually only have a very light tripod. It's a travel tripod and I probably only use it now for about one third of my photography because ibis is such a game changer, and if the ibis actually works really well, which in the 50s ii it works really well. Interestingly I found a 50 to be really good in low light and I've read since that the 50 is actually better because the pixels are bigger and I had no problems photographing stuff in really dark conditions. You can use extended ISO to 50 anyways. The Dynamic range improvement is nice but agree. I think where this camera shines and I know your channel is about landscape photography. Is that if you did want to do some other work with this camera say you get asked to do some Family shots on the weekend you could use this camera now you may not have the lenses for that but then again the GFX lenses are pretty versatile. You could shoot portraits with a 32 to 64 lens no problems at al, I think it's a great upgrade but I agree with you if you already Own it's probably not a great upgrade but if you like me and only own the 50S ii because it was my first GFX camera then this is a significant. Appreciate your review. On the pricing I think GFX medium format cameras are actually the most budget affordable friendly for medium format. I think you get amazing image quality. Maybe it's not as good as Hasselblad and phase one but honestly it is so good. And I have played with the files from my camera and 100 as well and it blows anything full frame away for landscape Photography. I'm sorry Nikon Z8 uses but this thing just blows the Nikon Z8 out of the water for image quality and the Nikon Z8 is a very good camera but GF medium format it's not even a contest in terms of image quality but is more difficult to use and it can be tricky and there are some things with medium format that are tricky to overcome so if you're not experienced then you're new to medium format do your research first because the way you shoot might need to for my long post, but I like to give my honest thoughts and thank you once again for your great video.

So Todd, are you selling your original 100S.....could be interested, just sayin'.....

Thanks for a great review. I have a mark i and will wait until Christmas when I hope Fuji will put the mark ii on sale. At least I hope they will. I agree that none of the features by themselves are compelling, but taken together make it reasonable to upgrade and then treat the mark I as a backup. I have some questions about the Kase sensor UV filter. Does it physically touch the front of the sensor? If so, I wonder if either it or the lenses on the sensor's individual color sensors will be abraded over time due to relative movement when the dust removal vibration occurs. Unless it's screwed in place, some relative movement during the accelerations to dump dust seems to be inevitable. But I haven't seen one so I'm guessing. Here's an unrelated question: did you ever review the GF 30mm tilt shift lens? I've only heard glowing reviews and yet the lens is not expected to be on the market for 6-12 months. That suggests to me that something unexpected was encountered prior to moving to production. Best wishes to you!

FYI most modern camera bodies automatically disable IBIS for shutter speeds under a certain threshold

This video being three years old, this might not be the time and place to ask this. But while this is thoroughly comprehensive, all the while watching it I kept wondering why must or should all these edits be done at the raw level? I understand that there is a non-destructive element to it all in the raw editing stage. But with Affinity (which is what I primarily use these days) you can have non-destructive layers. So what is so "precious" (if that's the right word to use) at the raw level that it is better to do all these edits at that stage?

Currently shoot Sony for my pro and client work..but would love to get into MF in the future and this 100SII is so nice!.....its crazy the fact that Sony provides these sensors to Fuji and others like Nikon as well..but to have a MF sensor that you sell to Fuji..is good for business on Sonys part..but as a Sony shooter I would not mind staying in the Sony eco system and not have to go to Fuji for it..and for them to have a MF body in the future would be amazing..imagine the Sony AF and processing performance in a MF body..quicker than Fuji in that sense with their AF etc etc..but I guess Sony made a deal with Fuji to not step on their toes per say and get into the MF category and only sell them the sensors..lol but I would love to see what Sony comes up with if they actually made a MF camera..

Perfect timing for me. A wonderful overview since I’m ordering the s II tomorrow. I have the original 50s. My work is a mix of editorial and architecture so I need the IBIS and other hand-held improvements as well as the tripod stability-work for architecture. Now if they would just lower the price of that 30mm T/s and make it widely available…

So my Niokn's are generally rated around 5-6 stops but I usually go about half that in reality. Now an 8-10 stop system (like some of the newest cameras) you could probably go with maybe 4-6 stops of realistic use). But it's never what the mfr says, or that's only been achieved in an "ideal" perfect scenario with a fast lens usually (like an f/1 or f/1.4 lens). Most modern mirrorless cameras can do the focus speaking and zooming in to focus (at least ones made in the last 5 years) and this is one reason I moved to mirrorless as it made manual focusing in general much easier. The thing about DR is that some people will go out and buy a new $3000+ body to gain maybe 1/2 or 1/4 of a stop in DR. Personally, as long as a camera could do something like 12 stops of DR, which is pretty much most cameras these days, I never really worried about this, partailly because while having a wide DR is usually good, I will usually bracket if the scene is more than about 5-6 stops difference for the best results. I've tried pulling out details and maintaining highlights in some shots where there was maybe 10-stops of DR or more, and for the most part it was fine, but sometimes shadow or dark areas would get muddy and it just never looked right to me, so I keep the bracketing when possible if it's more than about 5 stops. That all being said, if these are still around $5k for a100MP MF camera in a few years, i could see picking one up and maybe a wide angle lens or two for landscape (and keeping my FF system more for travel and other tasks, including landscape) but starting to work my way into the MF format perhaps (I'd probably still keep one of my 24MP FF bodies and a few lenses around strictly for travel though as I don't really view the 100MP MF systems as "travel" cameras necessarily, although they can probably used as such, but I feel that the high ISO noise penalty may be too uch and where 24-30 MP FF and even ASPC, sensors currently really shine). My guess is that with the aggressive body pricing, once they get you into the system with a body like that, they know you'll probably buy some lenses (the same as what most mfrs are doing in general, although the FF bodies are probably still on the higher side and the MF are almost a bargain in comparison) so my guess is that is their hope is that they may be cheap enough too that you might upgrade every few years, whereas some may buy a higher-end FF And not upgrade for 5-10 years.

Brand new Mark I currently available for £3499. That's £2000 off list price.

Honest video. But when you have a 5x7 large format camera with a 5x7 screen glass, you feel that your GFX display is poorly small. So what are the solutions for a bigger screen ?

Thanks a lot but, you didn't tell us any monitor that support Adobe RGB? besides what about contrast ration and brightness?

Great overview. Thank you. I will agree, tripod mounted one should opt for IBIS turned off. Also many times the extra 2 stops is a software addition to any hardware stabilization, and if shooting wide landscape, you might find it crops in a bit to achieve the "extra 2 stops" I don't want it cropped in if I'm going for wide landscape of cityscape or the like. Is do you know if the 100SII is doing any cropping for the purpose of more stabilization?

Enjoyed your video on back button focus but still a bit confused. I don't seem to be able to get my R5 to transition between One Shot single point focus to Servo Face Tracking mode. I can transition between One Shot single point and Servo mode but in Servo mode it is not Servo Face Tracking. Is there a way to move between One Shot and Servo and have the predetermined settings I want in each of these modes? What am I doing wrong?

It was recently stated that a UV or UV haze filter does not help a digital camera only film, like it compensates, so use just a clear glass protective filter. We used to buy them to help protect the lens element and coatings. Opinions?

If landscape is your thing there’s no need for upgrading here. . Composing with a viewfinder is more my tempo so that new spec does add some value.

I could be wrong, but I think modern cameras know when they are on a tripod. I was out with my 50S II yesterday, used a tripod and never saw any issues. But my longest exposure was only a bit over 3 seconds, maybe that's not long enough to see the movement from the IBIS? I did use electronic shutter though, because I assume that the big shutter will shake the camera or IBIS mechanism when it slaps up and down.